How-tos

Alternator not charging? Don’t jump straight to replacing it. On off-road machinery, the fault is usually something simpler—a loose belt, bad cables, a weak ground, or a battery that’s not holding up. Those parts wear out from heat, dust, and vibration long before the alternator does. This guide takes you through the diagnostic steps in the order they should be done: visual inspection, battery voltage checks, alternator output testing, voltage drop tests, and field circuit inspection. Fix belt slip, clean corroded terminals, replace damaged cables, and then consider the alternator. A new alternator won’t last if the ground is bad or the belt is loose. Test everything systematically and replace only what fails.

A carburetor is one of the most important components in a Briggs & Stratton small engine. It mixes air and fuel to create the proper combustion mixture needed for engine operation. When your lawn mower runs into problems such as hard starting, engine surging or poor performance, the carburetor is often the first thing to look at. This Briggs and Stratton carburetor diagram guide explains the main carburetor parts, their functions and how each part works together.

Master your truck’s electrical system with our detailed guide to the Freightliner Cascadia fuse box diagram. We break down the complex SAM Cab and SAM Chassis modules, helping you quickly diagnose and fix common electrical failures.

Changing the mower deck belt is simple with the Gravely mower deck belt diagram at hand. Always consult your owner’s manual and put safety first. At FridayParts, you can explore a vast range of aftermarket Gravely mower parts and mower deck belts. 

How to fix a refrigerant leak on an excavator AC? AC blowing warm air? That’s almost always a refrigerant leak. And fixing it properly means actually finding where it’s leaking and replacing the part that failed—not just adding more refrigerant and hoping it stays. Recharging alone is a band-aid, and leaving a small leak alone will eventually kill your compressor. Here’s what you need to do: check for leaks visually, with soap-and-water, or with UV dye; recover whatever refrigerant is left; replace the damaged part (O-ring, hose, condenser, or seal); pull a vacuum, leak-test it, then recharge with the precise amount. Skip the repair, and a seized compressor could cost you three to five times more.

Seeing the SPN 2011 FMI 9 fault code? It signals a communication loss with your ABS module. This guide walks you through the most common causes, like bad wiring or power loss, and provides a simple step-by-step process to diagnose and fix the problem.

Clogged radiator symptoms and how to fix them. Here’s a tip before you price out a new radiator—most clogs are repairable. It usually comes down to two things: crud blocking the fins on the outside, or rust and scale buildup inside choking off coolant flow. The main signs are pretty clear—temperatures creeping up under load, coolant dumping into the overflow tank, or cold spots on the radiator after it should be warm. This guide shows you how to confirm the problem step by step. Shine a light through the fins to see if they’re packed with debris, check what your coolant looks like, and rule out the thermostat, water pump, cap, and fan system before you pull the trigger. Clean external debris with low-pressure water or air, use a flushing product to break up internal deposits, and only replace the radiator if the flow doesn’t come back after cleaning.

Whenever you run into an electrical problem, the fuse box is the first place to look. In this guide, we’ll dive into the Ford fuse box diagram with the example of a Ford F150 to help you better know the fuses in your Ford trucks.

Inner and outer tie rod: which one is worn out? The outer tie rod usually goes first—it’s exposed to mud, water, and rocks. The inner end sits tucked under a rubber boot, so it lasts longer. This guide helps you figure out which one is causing your steering trouble without guessing and changing the wrong part. Learn the 3-and-9 o’clock test to check for play, how to inspect both joints, and which symptoms point to each failure—clunking over bumps usually means outer, while vague steering or shimmy at speed points to inner. Replace both sides together, count the turns, and always get a wheel alignment after the job.

If your machine’s battery keeps dying, a parasitic draw is the likely culprit. This guide explains the signs and shows you how to test for parasitic draw with a multimeter. Follow our simple steps to find the faulty circuit yourself.

This guide details common transmission speed sensor symptoms like rough shifting, power loss, and incorrect speedometer readings. A faulty sensor sends bad data, leading to poor performance and potential transmission damage. Learn what causes failure and why a quick fix is crucial.

Here are 11 common engine knocking causes:
Low-octane or poor fuel quality: Octane is a measurement that tells you how resistant a fuel is to abnormal combustion. If you use a lower octane than recommended by your vehicle owner’s manual, the fuel can pre-ignite and cause engine knock.
Low motor oil levels or poor oil quality: Insufficient or degraded engine oil can increase friction and heat inside the engine. Higher operating temperatures can contribute to abnormal combustion and increase the possibility of knocking.
Excessive carbon buildup: Gasoline contains carbon, which can leave deposits and buildup on critical engine components like the combustion chamber surfaces. Over time, carbon deposits accumulate on pistons and valves, reducing space inside the combustion chamber and raising pressure and heat. Then, pre-ignition and knocking become likely